Common 3D display technology for projecting stereoscopic image pairs to the viewer include:
- Anaglyphic 3D (with passive red-cyan lenses)
- Polarization 3D (with passive polarized lenses)
- Alternate-frame sequencing (with active shutter lenses)
- Autostereoscopic displays (without lenses), sometimes referred to commercially as Auto 3D.
You just need a few materials and a pair of scissors and you will be seeing the cool 3-D images at the Paper Project yourself.
- Heavy construction paper or card stock
- Glue or tape
- Cellophane sheets (red and blue)
- Download pdf for instructions Click and Save
- Do not wear your glasses constantly, it can cause headaches.
- Do not drive while wearing these glasses.
- If you use teal/green instead of blue, the colors might not blend in and it might not work.
Find a subject to photograph. Your subject should be able to sit still, and it should contain some depth. Your buddy in front of a bare white wall will look as boring in 3-D as he or she does normally. Consider close-ups of detailed things. You will probably want to set your camera to macro mode - the symbol is typically a flower.
Your subject needs to be able to sit still because you will be taking two "as-identical-as-possible" photos: one for the left-eye view and one for the right. A tripod might be nice, but it certainly isn't necessary. Take the first photo, then move the camera about 2 inches (the distance between your eyes) to the right and try to retake the photo to be as identical to the last one as possible.
- Copy the two images to your computer. Open in whatever photo editing program you prefer.
- Convert the first (left) image to gray scale (yes, you are discarding color information).
- Convert the second (right) image to gray scale, then reconvert it back to RGB. It should still appear gray.
- Still working on your second image, change your program to a mode that controls color channels. Select just the Red channel (usually designated by an eye icon next to the selected channel.)
- Back on the first image, select all (
- Move the red layer around with the mouse or arrow keys so that the two line up, minimizing the halos.
- Examine the photo while wearing your red-blue glasses (red over the left eye). You can change the natural focal point of the photo by readjusting the red layer's alignment. Eliminate the halos around an object in your photo to make it the focal point.
- If it is just not working for you, try looking through the glasses backwards (red over the right eye). When you have something you like, crop off the red and blue edges of the photo and save it. A well done 3-D photo should look mostly gray with small shadows of red and blue.
- A common mistake is to move more than 2 inches in step 2.
- You should ideally move the camera 2 cm for every 1 m to the subject for the best effect.
- There is also software that will do all this automatically for you including online services like Start 3D or downloadable windows software such as Stereo Photo Maker. In both cases just upload/load your two photos and the software will do the rest for you. They will also keep elements of the colour.
- Fuji launched the world's first consumer 3D digital camera the FinePix REAL 3D W1 in October 2009 that allows you to capture two shots simultaneously and so make amazing action shots.
- While increasing the distance between the two camera shots can cause a more dramatic effect, never exceed 8 inches, as this may give the viewer a severe headache.